Instruction for Automatic Pond Refill

Jerry and John have worked really hard on the instructions to make this device and they have done an excellent job. They have been enjoying their auto refillers for some time now and it is working really great for them. I am hoping to get one installed soon too! Thanks Guys!

First, and most importantly, insure that you are either comfortable with working around electricity, or have a qualified electrician perform this part of the installation for you.

Second, no matter who does the work, insure that all applicable codes are followed and/or that electrical appliances installed outdoors are protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.

Method of Operation:
A 120 / 24 volt ac transformer supplies 24 volts through a float switch, mounted in the pond, to a 24 volt valve. As water level decreases, the float switch closes a contact which causes the low voltage signal to be sent to the valve, thereby energizing it, causing water to flow through a filter to the pond.

Electrical Installation:
The float switch must be mounted securely, but should be movable to adjust it to the proper water level. This is accomplished by drilling and tapping a piece of aluminum "L" bracket (small enough to fit inside a 2 inch PVC pipe). A brass screw should be used to attach the float switch to the bracket to avoid any rust getting into the pond. (The switch has 1/8" pipe threads.) Mount this inside a piece of 2' PVC, using a bolt and wingnut. A slot is cut down the side of the PVC so that it will accept the bolt. Ensure that the slot will pass below water level. See Figure 1 The pipe can be closed on bottom to prevent entry of fish, frogs, or other foreign matter. (Holes can be drilled in, or a screen installed in the bottom of the pipe, however, the slot will allow enough water.) The switch has 24" leads, ensuring that the wiring connections can be made outside the pond. This can be mounted to the under side of a bridge, the front of a skimmer box, or a support could be fabricated and installed under the pond coping. A standpipe could be fabricated from PVC to allow placing the switch anywhere in the pond. It needs to be placed in an area of still water, so that wave action will not affect the switch (it is quite sensitive).

Here is a picture of the refill switch as it is mounted under our bridge. Note the tab that I left on top to mount the PVC. The wires do not go into the water, as it may seem; they are stapled to the bridge on the other side of the pipe. Also, note the wing nut. The sensor, with bracket, was placed inside the PVC pipe with the bolt in the slot. With the wing nut loosened, the inside assembly can be slid up or down to set the level of your pond.

The leads from the switch (22 gauge) are connected to a pair of wires (sprinkler or low voltage lighting cable), and routed to the transformer and solenoid for the sprinkler valve. One wire is connected to one of the 24 vac transformer leads, the other to one side of the solenoid. The other side of the solenoid is then connected to the remaining wire from the transformer. The transformer must be mounted indoors or in a watertight enclosure. The 120 vac side of the transformer is connected to site wiring. See Figure 2

We have some leeway, here. The installation can be as difficult as piping into the site plumbing system (valves and PVC pipe recommended), or it can be accomplished by using flexible pipe or hose. Again, ensure code compliance, where required.

From a shutoff valve, pipe to the ¾" sprinkler valve, then through the filter, and on to the pond refill point. See Figure 3 The filter should be plumbed so that it is removable. It is a matter of taste, as to how the water is put into the pond. Some may not want it to show; others will choose to use a decorative spitter.

This idea is not new, nor is it my own. I don't think that I have seen it detailed like this anywhere else. Thanks need to go to Mark of Mammoth, Utah Mark's Pond for the idea for a float switch to use, and to Chuck Rush of Dallas, Texas Pond Rushes - So You Want to Build a Pond... ..for the filter idea. Both of these have good pond pages, and good ideas. Check out Chuck's "Tips" page for more information on the filter. (He stresses that you need to use a "membrane" type canister in the filter, not the one that is wrapped with wire mesh.) I am not sure that this filter will remove chloramine. It does a good job on chlorine, but chlorine will evaporate out on it's own, given time. So far, our fish (goldfish, shebunkin, and orandas) haven't suffered any ill effects after several months of using this system. But, (and here is the small print) use this system at your own discretion; you will find no guarantees, here, just directions on how it is done. Remember that a good filter system is crucial to the well being of all your pond critters.


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